Lining a Crochet Purse

Lining a knit or crochet bag is a very important step.  It helps protect the bag from damage, keeps it from stretching out and since these bags tend to have little holes, the lining helps keep your items inside.
Luckily, it is a really easy thing to do.  Here is how I do it.

 

First, I lay my finished purse on two layers of the lining fabric.  Using a pen, I draw a line about 1/2" outside the edges of the bag.  This does not have to be perfect.  No one will open out the lining and say "Oh my!  You're lining is crooked!"  If they do, slap them.  Tell the cops I said it was fine.

 

Next, with right sides together, sew around the outside edges of the lining.  Do not sew across the top.

 

Tuck the sewn lining into the purse, with the wrong side of the lining facing the inside of the bag. 

 

Turn the top edge in toward the bag and whip stitch the lining to the bag around the top.

 

For this bag, I started my lining right under the handles.  Don't go above the handles or you won't be able to use them.  Sounds like common sense, but I've been in a rush and done it.  Can't be pretty and smart.

 

 

See?  Simple.

 

 

 

Easiest Ever Baby Blanket

It appears I have extremely prolific friends and family and I have to crank out four baby blankets by the end of the month.  When I have this many to do at once, I turn to the classics.  This is one of my favorite patterns to use.  It is simple and fast as it is worked with two strands of yarn at once.  I have made a number of blankets like this and they all turn out fluffy and soft and beautiful.  I have made them with all types of yarn, in all color combinations.  This particular blanket is made with 4 skeins of Vanna's Choice and 2 skeins of Red Heart (the regular worsted kind).  My mother and I are both big blanket makers and when Vanna's Choice came out we LOVED it.  It was soft and smooth and easy to work with and the colors are great.  HOWEVER, we have found it is just not durable.  Isn't that the way it always goes?  So, for this blanket, I combined it with the sturdy, yet a little rougher Red Heart, in the hopes of creating a blanket that is soft, but can stand up to frequent washings (baby puke anyone?). 

This is a very common pattern.  I did not invent it.  I am not sure who did.  Every knitter knows it...  well that is a blanket statement and probably not true.  MANY knitters know it and use it on everything from dishcloths (awesome) to... duh, baby blankets.  I highly recommend it for a first project, it is that easy!  Happy Knitting!

Easiest Ever Baby Blanket

Materials

I used 2 skeins Red Heart worsted weight and 4 skeins Vanna's Choice

Size 13 circular needles

tapestry needle

Directions

** This blanket is knit holding two strands of yarn together as one**

Cast on 5 stitches

Row 1: knit

Row 2: knit 3, yo, knit to end of row

Repeat row 2 until desired size (The blanket is knit from corner to corner.  To check size, measure from starting corner, up one side to meet needles.  I like about 36", but you can go bigger or smaller, to suit your taste)

Decrease row:  knit 2, knit 2 tog, yo, knit 2 tog, knit to end of row

Repeat decrease row until 5 stitches remain.  Cast off and weave in ends.



Knit Mary Jane Slippers

I made these slippers for my daughter and the little stink didn't like them.  So I gave them to her friend who LOVED them, and then asked me to make some for her twin sisters... 



Knit Mary Jane Slippers

You will need

scrap yarn- I used about 1/4 skein of Homespun (on 3 slippers, the 1st was too small)

2 buttons

scrap fabric that coordinates with your yarn, or not

scrap ric rac, ribbon, trim etc.

2 safety pins

hot glue gun

Needle and thread

Size 9 straight and double pointed needles

Size I crochet hook

What you do

With straight needles, co 14 st, leaving some tail to sew the heel together.

Work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) for 10 rows.

Next row (RS): k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (12 st).  Work 3 rows even in St st.

*Next row (RS): k down row and co 12 st at end of row (24 st) work 2 rows even (this is the strap).

*Next row (WS): Bind off 12 st, p to end (12 st).  Work 4 rows even.

Next row (RS): k1, m1, k10, m1, k1 (14 st).  P 1 row.

Next row (RS): k2, m1, k10, m1, k2 (16 st). p 1 row.

Next row: With dpn#1, k6-dpn#2, k6-dpn#3, k4, co 4 st (20 st).  Knit 1 rnd.

Next row: k2, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k3 (18 st). k2 rnds even.

Next row: k7, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k to end (16 st). k2 rnds even.

Next row: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k to end (14 st). k1 rnd.

Next rnd: (k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k4 (11 st)

Next rnd: (k2tog)3 times, k3, k2tog (7 st).  Cut yarn and thread tail through rem. st.  Pull tight and weave in end.

Using the tail from your cast on, sew up the heel.  Using the crochet hook, work 1 row of sc into all st around the open edge of slipper.

For opposite slipper

Replace rows with a * with these directions:

Next row (RS): co 12st at beginning of row and knit down row (24 st). p 1 row.

Next row (RS): bo 12 st, k to end (12 st). Work 5 rows even.

Continue pattern as above.

Now it's time to make bows!

Cut a 3" square and press up the edges.  I used a flat iron for this because I was too lazy to go downstairs and get my real iron.  Plus, then I can do it sitting down.

Then fold one side up to the middle.

And fold the other side up to meet it.

I folded in my corners so none of the raw edges would show in my finished side.

This is what it will look like when you flip it over.

Pinch it together in the middle, creating a gather.

Stitch through the folds a few times and tie it off snugly.

Repeat this process to make another bow.

Now cut your ric rac, ribbon or trim to fit around the center of the bow.

Using the hot glue gun, glue down one end to the back of each bow.

Now here is a smart woman would have wrapped the safety pin in the trim piece before she glued the other end down.  I am not a smart woman.

So I had to glue the safety pins to the back of the bows.

Next, sew the end of the strap to the side of the slipper by sewing a decorative button on.  There is no button hole, so this is just for show.  The slipper is stretchy enough to be slipped on and off anyway.

Pin on your bows and you have a sweet pair of slippers!  These will fit an average 7-8 year old.  You can easily adjust them by using thinner yarn and smaller needles or thicker yarn and larger needles.

Ripple Afghan

My step-son went to college this fall and I thought a great Christmas gift for him would be a handmade afghan.  My mother has made everyone she loves (and probably some people she didn't) an afghan.  Handmade blankets last forever.  They are warmer because they are full of love and sometimes swear words.  This one, has none of the latter.  It is a fantastically simple and quick afghan.  If you are knitting an afghan for the first time, I highly reccomend this one.

Ripple Afghan



What you need

7 skeins Vanna's Choice yarn in Taupe

6 skeins Vanna's Choice yarn in Cranberry

6 skeins Vanna's Choice yarn in Linen

What you do
*This afghan is knit holding 2 strands of yarn and working as if they are one*

Co 150 st

k 4 rows

Next row begins pattern

Row 1(RS): knit

Row 2: k3, p to last 3 st, k3

Row 3: k3, k2tog 3 times,*yo k1 6 times, k2tog six times, repeat from * to last 9 st, k2tog 3 times, k3

Row 4: knit

Work rows 1-4 3 times in Taupe, change to Cranberry and work rows 1-4 3 times, change to linen and work rows 1-4 3 times.

Repeat until desired length.  I did 6 reps so 72 rows in pattern.

Work rows 1-4 3 times more in Taupe.  Knit 4 rows and cast off

Neck Warmer #2

I went on kind of a knitting bender this Christmas.  I think handmade items are the best gift you can give someone.  Buying a present takes what?  An afternoon?  If you have to go a couple of places because you can't find what you're looking for?  But making something.  That takes days.  Weeks even.  That's a gift. 

I am going to show some of the stuff I made for my lovies this year.  This pretty is a neckwarmer I made for my sister's girlfriend.  It is cozy and chunky and very glamorous.  I lined it using the same method I used on my Cabled Neckwarmer.  It knits up very quickly and easily.  Happy knitting!

Chunky Neckwarmer



You Will Need

2 skeins bulky yarn ( I used Lion Brand Jiffy in Dark Grey Heather)

3 large buttons (at least 1", but preferably larger)

size 13 needles

What to do

*THIS WARMER IS MADE USING 2 STRANDS OF YARN AND HOLDING AS ONE*

co 18 st

Row 1: k2, p2, k10, p2, k2

Row 2 (and all even rows): Knit the knits and purl the purls

Row 3: (button hole row): k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, yarn front to back, yo, p2 tog, k2

Row 5: k2, p2, k10, p2, k2

Row 7: k8, p2, k8

Row 9 (button hole row): p6, k2, p2, yarn front to back, yo, k2 tog, p6

Row 11: k8, p2, k8

Row 13: k2, p2, k10, p2, k2

Row 15 (button hole row): k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, yarn front to back, yo, p2tog, k2

Row 17: k2, p2, k10, p2, k2

Row 19: k8, p2, k8

Row 21: p6, k2, p2, k2, p6

Row 23: k8, p2, k8

Row 25: k2, p2, k10, p2, k2

Row 27: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2

Row 29: k2, p2, k10, p2, k2

Repeat rows 19-30 until warmer reaches desired length.  Mine is about 25".  Line if desired (see Cabled Neckwarmer for tutorial).  Sew on buttons and weave in ends.

My First Tutorial-Cabled Neckwarmer

I am IN LOVE with neckwarmers.  Warmth with no long scarf ends to deal with.  They knit up quickly and are a great way to showcase great buttons.  This version is a cabled and lined child's size neckwarmer.  I was made to fit my daughter who is 8, but could easily fit an adult with the addition of a couple more cable repeats.  This pattern is for at least experienced beginners, but is a great way to practice cables.  I hope you enjoy it!

Cabled Neckwarmer

Materials: 1 skein Lion Brand Jiffy yarn in Shocking Pink. 

                 Size 10 straight needles

                 Scrap of matching (or not) fabric

                 2-1" buttons

                 Needle and thread

Finished Size: Approx. 22 1/2" long and 5" wide

Stitch Explanation: 2/2 LC (2 over 2 left cross) Slip 2 st to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

                              2/2 RC (2 over 2 right cross)  Slip 2 st to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then

k2 from cable needle.

Neckwarmer: co 30 st. Work 3 rows in Seed st.

Row 1 (RS): Work 3 st in Seed st, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k8, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, work 3 st in Seed st.

Rows 2, 4, and 6: Work 3 st in Seed st, k1, p4, k1, p1, k1, p8, k1, p1, k1, p4, k1, work 3 st in Seed st.

Row 3: Work 3 st in Seed st, p1, 2/2 LC, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, 2/2 LC, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 LC, p1, work 3st in Seed st.

Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Row 7: Work 3 st in Seed st, p1, 2/2 LC, p1, k1, p1. 2/2 LC, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, 2/2LC, p1, work 3 st in Seed st.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Repeat rows 1-8 13 times, or until desired length.

Button Hole Row: Work 3 st in Seed st, p1, k4, cast off 2 st, p1, k8, p1, cast off 2st, k4, p1, work 3 st in Seed st.

Next Row: Work in Seed st, casting on 2 st in pattern after st 8 and st 20 to replace cast off st.

Last 2 Rows: Work in Seed st.  Bind off.

I wanted to line my neckwarmer, but this is absolutely optional.  If you want, you can simply weave in in the yarn ends, sew on your buttons and be done.  If you wish to line yours too, read on.

I washed and dried my fabric which is a super soft flannel since it will be up against neck skin.  Next, I laid my finished scarf on top and started to cut around it.  Then I realized bad things were going to happen when I accidentally cut my scarf so I traced around it and cut along the lines.

I pinned my fabric to the back of my neckwarmer, turning the edges under about 1/4".  I hand sewed the fabric to the warmer using a simple whip stitch.  Be sure to leave your button holes free or you will have to make button holes in your fabric as well.  HUGE pain in the...  well, you know.

Sew on your buttons, and weave in your loose yarn ends and presto chango!

A warm snuggly neck warmer!